FXC Rocker Switch Aluminum Panel 4 Gang Toggle Switches Dash 5 Pin ON/Off 2 LED Backlit for Boat Car Marine Orange

UPDATE AFTER INSTALL. Now things look worse. What were they thinking of when they pre-wired all four switches to a common hot lead. If you plan on using these switches with more than one fused power source line, you are in big trouble. In order to change all of this prewired jumpered source wiring, you will need to pull off the blade style wiring connectors. As I noted in my first review, because of poor quality blade locking hole and connector tolerances, the force needed to remove a connector is more that that needed to physically rip the blade out of the switch body. These switches are poor quality to start with and then they aggravate the situation by prewiring the four switches with one common hot lead - which makes it impossible to fuse the switched circuits individually. . . . ORIGINAL REVIEW = While I am going to go ahead and use these (I have already machined the panel and mounting escutcheon holes), I leave you some cautions. Upon inspection, I found two of the black ground wire crimps visually unsound, and indeed they failed a moderate wire pull test. As an engineer involved in avionics work, I am used to inspecting things before install. The gauge of the assembled ground wire is smaller (0.040 in) vs. the Red (0.060 in.) hot lead. The Red wire crimps well in the blade female connector. The BLK does not. The (Blk) wire (less the insulation) is small enough that almost all the wire can get off in the side roll of the center crimp. In one case, just two strands of wire were actually under the crimp. While this would test good, it certainly will not hold up to any stress.Admittedly, this BLK wire just carries LED current, but it is sure to not last in some applications. I inspected all of the BLK crimps and removed the protective jackets and repaired them by soldering them and then returning the jacket to the connector. The RED wire is large enough to make a good crimp in all the ones I inspected. This is the high current wire that is rated up to 20A. But, I sure would hesitate to use this switch in such a high current application.There is one other BIG caution. In at least one case, the pull force required to remove a blade female connector from its blade was more than that required to physically pull (rip) the blade itself out of the switch body - leaving it flying loose. I pushed it back in and tested the LED function (again it was a BLK lead), and being good, I just put some epoxy on the blade to hold it in, since the mechanical plastic bond had been ripped apart in the switch body.All in all, this switch assembly gets low marks for reliability. In my case, it is going into a low use, low current, camper application with no vibration and low duty cycles.I also hate having to return things, so I am giving it a try. But, do not plan on taking this wiring and switch mount assembly apart to make the panel entry hole. That is what led me down the garden path.

This is a great switch set and looks great on my golf cart. One problem - the 4 screws which hold it in started rusting in 2 months - Really? Also it's a little tricky to figure out how to wire it, that's because there are 5 posts on the back of each switch, two for lights (on when switched on and one lit all the time) and ground) and two for switching power to the device you want to control . This is actually a good thing but it isn't described anywhere.If weren't for the screws this would be a 5 - I know it seems picky but I'm looking for attention to detail.

The aluminum panel itself is fine, comes with black painted mounting screws that match (although they are cheap screws, the head of one of them broke off as I was screwing it into my dash). The switches themselves all seemed to work upon arrival, but like a few other reviews on here, I also had a few terminals that pulled right out of the switch when I was removing the cheap wire harness. NOTE: There is a small tab you are supposed to press down on the wire connector to get it to release from the switch terminal. Press it down when taking the wire harness off or you WILL pull a lot of the terminals out of the back of these switches and ruin them. I'm probably going to just buy some better quality switches to go with this panel. Panel 4/5, switches 2/5. Wire harness 1/5, the crimp job on this harness is very weak, the wires pulled out of the crimp connectors with minimal effort, I'm going to solder up my own harness for this panel.

Low quality plastic. Parts break easily. Just tugging on a blade wire connector to install will pull the entire assembly apart and rendering it useless. This high failure rate worries me about camping remotely where breakage can significantly impact our quality of trip.If I had only know how cheaply these were made, I would have gotten eaton switches first instead of as replacements for these units.However, they do have a cool blue led that is nice to look at in the dark.

Looks like a lot of reviews complain about pulling tabs out of the switches. I found it difficult to remove the factory installed spade connectors too until I realized there is a little lock tab hidden under the plastic insulation. If you depress here where I’ve shown in the photo and pull up, the connector will slide right off easily.

I found the daisy chain wiring that it came with to be rather wasteful of wire and the crimp connectors. The method of how these connectors are kept on the terminal unique and rather difficult to remove from the spade part of the switch. I’d recommend just including the 16 crimp connectors and let the users wire up the switch themselves. It would save you money for labor and the wire. The likelihood of a user wanting both sides of the switch daisy chained would be limited IMHO, YMMV...

I would not recommend purchasing these switches. I purchased one to replace a worn out panel in a RV. The panel comes pre wired which I tested before doing any installation work and found that 2 of the switches LEDs were shorted to ON at all times. I attempted to remove the pre installed harness as it would not work for my switch application and the spade terminals in the switch came out with the connector.In summary:The half the switches’ LEDs were shorted to always on.Half the switches broke from removing the wire off of the switch itself.

I would've preferred if the switches came packaged separately, meaning not mounted on the panel with wires attached. This made it difficult to remove them and like many others here, ended up pulling one of the pins out. I was able to put it back in and the switch worked but now it's hit or miss sometimes and I have to find a replacement. The panel itself is nice but I ended up not using it, the switches are OK and work and the LEDs are bright but the wiring is crap. Like I said, I would've rather it come without wiring. Note to seller: PACKAGE EVERYTHING SEPARATELY AND WITH NO WIRES ATTACHED! You'll be doing yourself a favor and reducing the number of bad reviews.