Restore (00016) 8-Cylinder Formula Engine Restorer & Lubricant - 16 oz.

Absolutely yes. I've got a second hand 2500 Yukon XL with an 8.1 and it came to me with a rough idle and check engine light with codes for misfire on #1 and &#3. That's the drivers side two front plugs. I pulled the plugs and found some of the ceramic insulator chipped away on both those plugs(towing on cheap low test pump gas in southern USA heat with a large plug gap makes spark-knock and this vortec is just like the smaller ones in they don't appreciate spark knock, this is probably what killed the ceramic insulators). I pulled the rest but they all looked fine. I compression tested and found #1 was 60#'s less than the average (the rest were all within like 17psi of one another((the average was something around 200 or 205)) and #3 was 20#'s less than the average of the rest. I replaced the plugs, gapped them .020 tighter than the sticker says (there's a service notice about using a smaller gap to improve idle and reduce missfire codes) and cleared the codes. Idle improved greatly but it was still noticeably missfire at an almost regular rate. And the miss went away as soon as a little throttle was applied. I added an 8cyl bottle of Restore in I had (I already researched a lot before I bought the truck and had stuff in my amazon cart). I fired the truck and by the time the idle settled down to its low idle it used to miss at, it was silky smooth. I did a good test rip out in the cornfield loop by my house for about 8 miles and came home with a very big smile on my face as a very happy big block owner. I tested all the cyls and the average had raised by about 10psi and both bad cyls came up to about 7 psi of each other and of the average. I now run a bottle in it every year unless I tow a lot in the summer, then 2x a year. If I go 2 oil changes without it, or about a year, I start to notice its less punchy and it starts to get a little random idle stumble. Not even a miss fire but just a very random stumble. I give this product 12 of ten. I have a lot of experience with using it to bring free junk small engines I get for free, back to life. This stuff even works in splash lubed small engines! It keeps amazing me.

Generally, I try and not fix what is not broken, though I admit to trying out products out of curiosity. I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2 Liter V8 (177,600 Miles) and sometimes add a small dose (16 oz or less) of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer at some oil changes to add body to the oil (and help it coat the old parts better), but that is about it. I make sure my crank case does not exceed 5 quarts total. Reading the positive reviews of this product, and understanding that the oil acts as a "Cylinder Sealing Lube" to help lock in the power strokes, I was curious. My engine was feeling like it was not quite like it used to be. No huge problem starting up, but the start up time was variable. Sometimes, the engine would start up eagerly, and sometimes, take about a half second longer. I was also wondering if my engine was making near the same amount of power it once did before we bought it at 128,000 miles. I decided to give the Engine Restore CSL a go, along side some Royal Purple 11750 HMX SAE 10W-30 High-Mileage Synthetic Motor Oil - 5 qt. and a Royal Purple 20-253 Oil Filter . I also currently use Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant to further boost the presence of lubrication in the system for good measure. After a month of minor improvements to the engine's characteristics, I started noticing that consistently, my engine was starting up right away and the cylinders were now roaring to life. Not only that, but I am noticing that my oil is staying cleaner (less blow-by?), and there is no irregularity in the revving of the engine now. Remember that this won't rebuild an engine and that you don't have to exactly follow the game plan that I did. Start with your preferred brand of oil, a great oil filter and the proper dose of Engine Restore. Keep things simple at first and if the engine is still burning oil, deal with that the way you see fit. My solution is not one-size-fits all. Update 5/4/2017: My review still stands from earlier, but now that I've been taking longer trips, I've found that I need a stronger seal than the engine restore can provide so the Jeep is using the Lucas Oil Stabilizer. The Jeep had a lot of driving in Texas with the first owner so I suspect that this may be partly responsible. I found the necessary % of Lucas Oil Stabilizer to nearly eliminate the oil burn in my engine, but this is only relevant for my engine's characteristics.

I never bother to write reviews. Escalade 143K miles. Out of nowhere we ere sitting in line at Whataburger when the truck suddenly started misfiring and shaking. The check engine light started flashing off and on and the anti-skid system light came on. I just happened upon this additive on Amazon, read the reviews and said WTH! I’ll give a try. Delivered to my door the next evening. I had my doubts, but I poured this product into the oil filler and started it up. Right away the misfire and shaking was almost totally gone. Drove it and it drove really smooth at highway speed. It did misfire just a little at idle but the change was incredible. The check engine light came back on. I went and had all my compressions checked and all 8 were way low. So I’m probably going to rebuild the engine. BUT this stuff absolutely works! I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND this product if the misfire is not too bad or if your compression is pretty good. It will definitely be worth trying. It really is a mini-overhaul and tuneup in a $10 can. It works!

I have always used this in high mileage engines with good results. It has gotten really expensive though and probably no longer worth the $$$$

Works great. Does what it says on the can! This product literally restored our 1972 Dodge Dart's 318 motor. Noticeable difference from day one and every drive after just got better and better. The 318 had some serious compression issues but after 3 cans of the magic product it is running like new - really - totally amazing. Makes one wonder how many beautiful old cars would still be on the road if this product was a main-stream recognized item. So impressed I used it on my 1995 BMW 525i and 1984 Toyota Sunrader 22R motor. All my cars run much better, smoother and use much less gas after using this BRILLIANT product. VERY Highly recommend. A++ 10 Stars!

This is one of the only additives thats demonstrably independently proven to improve compression and operation of older worn engines. I use an 8cyl bottle every 3 oil changes in my 500k mile Mercedes 300D and it makes a tangible difference in starting ability, especially in the cold. Used a 4cyl bottle in my wifes 09 Civic with less noticeable results since its only got 100k miles and is in good condition. Put 1/4 a 4cyl bottle in my 6 year old industrial Kubota 1 cylinder engine and pull starting it is noticeably harder from improved compression. I'm a very anti-additive person since 99.9% prove to be snake oil, but this is the ONLY thing I ever suggest anyone ever add to engine oils. Keep it away from HEUI engines though, it can affect the injector operation.

Are use this in every car that I bought that had high mileage Amazon has it for the cheapest price everywhere else is five to $10 more. I use this every three months with an oil change they give my car/truck are more power compression. I have worked on cars for 30 years. I used it in my Lexus my Toyota both my dodges untell I sold them and my 1999 GMC full size suburban I still dive it’s worth the money!!! Ease to use don’t need a filter to put in

I was very skeptical at first, but this product allowed me to pass an emissions test on 160k Mike vehicle with a bad ring/cylinder. My 2004 R50 MINI Cooper was throwing a cylinder 2 misfire code, so I couldn't smog it which means I couldn't renew the license plate, which means it was just sitting in my garage. Compression test showed 150/50/150/160psi on cylinders 1-4. It's non gdi, and the valves looked clean and free, so it had to be ring related. Leak down and wet compression test confirmed cylinder 2 had a bad ring or scored cylinder wall. Wasn't about to tear open the engine on a 13 year old high-mile German car, but I needed to pass emissions as it's our only vehicle. Figure $12 on a can of snake oil wasn't the end of the world. Added the product during an oil change, and after a 30 minute idle, a few heat cycles, and 50 miles of sitting in traffic, to my amazement, the CEL went off. I pulled the plug on cylinder 2, and sure enoug, I was getting 130psi+, dry, on cylinder 2. That's 80psi picked up from a can of blue goop added to the oil. Other than Seafoam as a solvent, I'm the type to laugh off any kind of cure-in-a-can engine remedies, but in this case, the proof is in the pudding (or, in this case, the compression capacity). I cleared the codes, did an obd drive cycle and sure enough, my scan tool showed a green light for emissions, no codes, excellent freeze frame data. Raced to the emissions testing facility and passed, crap-eating-grin on my face the entire time. Fast forward about 800 mixed city/highway miles, and I've thrown the "cylinder 2 misfire" code again once or twice. I haven't done a compression test since, but I'd imagine compression is back down below 100psi on cylinder 2. If the cylinder wall is scored, the codes may be a result of blowby during detonation, not just garden-variety combustion. No matter, as the can of restore got me through the emissions test. Engine sounds and feels a little more awake, but that may well be more the power of suggestion than compression. I am seeing a lot less oil in the catch can, which leads me to believe there's more compression capacity and less blowby occuring, even if the code has returned. End of the day, it's not an engine rebuild in a can, but I'd defend the product and never consider it snake oil again.