🚀 Elevate Your Kitchen Game with SpaceMaker!
The BLACK+DECKER TROS1000D SpaceMaker Under-Counter Toaster Oven is a sleek, space-saving appliance designed to maximize your kitchen efficiency. With a powerful 1400 watts, it offers versatile cooking functions including baking, toasting, and warming, all controlled through an intuitive digital interface. Installation is a breeze with included templates, making it the perfect addition for modern kitchens.
Finish Types | Silver |
Material Type | Plastic |
Item Weight | 14 Pounds |
Door Style | Dropdown Door |
Color | Black |
Control Type | Knob |
Power Source | AC adapter |
Wattage | 1400 watts |
Additional Features | Under-the-cabinet spacemaker design |
D**O
A Solid OVEN TOASTER!
Quality Solid Oven Toaster. I say oven toaster as opposed to toaster oven because I honestly believe this unit will be used to do so much more than toast. Its oven area is nicely sized. It has a solid 10.25 x 9.5 cooking area. In fact for those of you who are going to purchase this do not forget to order this: Delonghi XU18PS Tempered Pizza Stone. I looked all over the internet for a good oven tray and then it occurred to me why not get a cooking stone so that pizzas crisp up well and just about anything can be set on it to warm up like egg rolls and all sorts of bite size baking snacks. This Delonghi Stone fits perfectly in the oven like it was made for it.The only negative thing about the oven is that the oven did not come with a toaster tray. But you can find em all over anyways for cheap so no biggie there.This oven toaster came with the under cabinet mount so I am not sure why someone else said it did not. Also the stencil worked PERFECTLY for spacing the four X points if you do the following: What I did was put the mount under the cabinet exactly where I needed it. I then marked two of the front holes with a thin long nail and then drilled on the marks because marking all four holes this way would not be accurate as there is some play with the nail I used to mark the holes. I then took the stencil paper and cut out from the stencil just along all four drill spots to make a rectangle that matched the mounts screw holes. X to X to X to X and placed the paper on the shelf with one corner directly on the two front holes I drilled. I was able to mark and drill all the other holes accurately from the stencil and it was perfectly spaced and centered for the rack which mounted perfectly.It was tricky using the gap spacers so be ready to deal with that fun.I recommend that they manufacture spacers that will fit snugly or screw onto the down mount bolts so that they do not fall off when mounting. Just as a tip, if you put the down bolts through the holes and then wrap the bolt that sticks out on the underside of the cabinet with white teflon tape that plumbers use just thick enough so that the spacers stay snugly on the bolt than you should avoid a spectacle of three stooges proportions ;)Someone mentioned that they only had one set of 4 bolts but I was given 4 long and 4 short so the long ones worked with my typical cupboard lip. I also was given 12 spacers, 4 each of thin, med, long. You should only need spacers for the back two bolts and not the front if you mount the mount flush with the edge of the cupboard instead of inside the lip of the edge as the edge holds it very tight and snugly.One last things, there was a great tip by someone else to unscrew and remove the legs on the oven because it looks better. I would partially agree with this... However I recommend only removing the front which gives it a nice clean look and also the back legs cannot be seen when left on and have a hook that goes up the back of the oven which is for excess cord holding. I orginally took them off in the back but realized the rear legs have a dual purpose and put them back on and they cannot be seen and are useful for the cord so it does not droop down.As a side note I was impressed with the way this was packaged and shipped. Double boxed and solid as a rock! The door feels solid and I like the electronic features. It matches my GE stove and fridge and dishwasher perfectly.This is my 2nd under the cabinet Spacemaker Oven Toaster and it is much better than the first one from soup to nuts because the heating element on the bottom and the top is a chunky 1/2 inch thick and not the pencil thickness.
T**R
Installation Is Not That Difficult
Like many of the reviewers, my old style B&D Under-Counter Toaster Oven finally failed. After reading many, many reviews, my only concern was the proclaimed difficulty experienced by many reviewers concerning the installation process.At least one reviewer claimed that his new unit wasn't intended to be mounted under a cabinet with an overhang. This is not correct. My cabinet has an overhang of 1 1/4" and I was able to mount my unit without any issues. The overhang mounting procedure is clearly explained and illustrated in the instructions.Many other reviewers experienced difficulty and frustration while attempting to affix the toaster oven to the attached mounting hardware. I did not. I just followed the instructions: (rear clips attach first, then pull out and up [toward you] on the bottom front feet until the top front of the unit firmly locks onto the top front clips).I don't use this oven for baking, so I can't comment on that function. But for toast and reheating pizza, for instance, it functions fine.Here are a few things that I ran into that might help someone:[1] If your cabinet has an overhang of 1 1/4" (BOTTOM of overhang to BOTTOM of shelf; measure behind overhang) you'll need 3" machine screws (5mm-0.80 thread). The longest screws supplied with the product are 2 3/8". Save yourself aggravation and have the 3" screws on-hand.[2] Again, for cabinets with overhangs, the instructions direct you to fold the template on the line that represents the THICKNESS of your overhang trim (mine is 3/4"). However, when I folded my template on the 3/4" line I found (during a dry run) that it would have caused the unit to be mounted 1/4" too much forward, which, in turn, would cause the top of the mounting hardware to extend 1/4" beyond the face of the cabinet overhang, exposing the void in the mounting hardware. For whatever reason, the 1/2" fold line worked perfectly for me.[3] You don't have to tape the template to the bottom of the cabinet shelf and drill the mounting holes from underneath. If it's easier for you to drill from the top, you can. Here's what you need to do: Use an awl or a nail to poke a hole through the four marked drill spots on your template. Fold your template on the line corresponding with your overhang thickness (if applicable), but remember to fold it BACKWARDS (the printed side of the template will not be visible when drilling from the top, but it doesn't have to be. The fold will localize the position of your template, and the holes you made with an awl or a nail will be visible. Remember to align the fold with the backside of the overhang trim (if applicable); this would be where the actual shelf begins. That's all you need to do to drill from the top. But remember, PRINTED SIDE DOWN WHEN DRILLING FROM THE TOP!
D**B
Still going strong after 8 years!
We love ours. We are moving for the second time since buying it and I came online to remember how to take it off…as it’s going to our new home with us and I saw that we bought it almost 8 years ago. It’s not a fancy one, but it does everything a little toaster should do and it hasn’t had any glitches in all this time. We LOVE how much space it saves!! When it goes to the toaster over afterlife we will probably buy the same one again!
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