---
product_id: 1202927
title: "APEC Water ROES-50, 5-Stage Under Sink Reverse Osmosis System, 50 GPD"
brand: "apec water"
price: "¥107754"
currency: JPY
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 13
category: "Apec Water"
url: https://www.desertcart.jp/products/1202927-apec-water-roes-50-5-stage-under-sink-reverse-osmosis
store_origin: JP
region: Japan
---

# 50 GPD ultra-pure flow DIY quick-connect install 99.99% impurity removal APEC Water ROES-50, 5-Stage Under Sink Reverse Osmosis System, 50 GPD

**Brand:** apec water
**Price:** ¥107754
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 💧 Drink Pure, Live Elevated — The Ultimate Home Water Upgrade

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** APEC Water ROES-50, 5-Stage Under Sink Reverse Osmosis System, 50 GPD by apec water
- **How much does it cost?** ¥107754 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.jp](https://www.desertcart.jp/products/1202927-apec-water-roes-50-5-stage-under-sink-reverse-osmosis)

## Best For

- apec water enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted apec water brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Complete Premium Kit:** Includes brushed nickel faucet, 5-gallon storage tank, filter set, and installation tools—everything you need in one box.
- • **Effortless DIY Setup:** Quick-connect fittings and color-coded tubing make installation and maintenance a breeze—no plumber needed.
- • **Trusted Legacy & Support:** Backed by 20+ years of engineering excellence and responsive customer service to keep your system running flawlessly.
- • **Generous 50 Gallons Daily:** Reliable 50 gallons per day capacity ensures your home never runs out of fresh, great-tasting water.
- • **Unmatched Purity, Every Drop:** Removes 99.99% of contaminants including lead, arsenic, fluoride, PFAs & microplastics for crystal-clear water.

## Overview

The APEC Water ROES-50 is a 5-stage under-sink reverse osmosis system delivering up to 50 gallons of ultra-pure water daily. Certified to remove 99.99% of over 1000 contaminants including heavy metals and microplastics, it features easy DIY installation with quick-connect fittings and comes complete with a brushed nickel faucet and 5-gallon storage tank. Designed for durability and backed by two decades of expertise, it’s the go-to solution for millennials seeking clean, great-tasting water without the hassle of bottled alternatives.

## Description

APEC Water ROES-50, 5-Stage Under Sink Reverse Osmosis System, 50 GPD | NSF Certified 372 & 58, Reduces 99% of Impurities, DIY Installation - desertcart.com

Review: >>> DOES THE JOB - > I purchased the APEC ROES-50 to replace a similar 25 year-old system, largely because I was due for a completely filter change (including the membrane), and a tank change --- which would have costed as much as a new system. > The APEC ROES-50 system includes everything you need for a complete installation, including adapters, a splitter, and a valve to attach to your cold water line, and an RO (reverse osmosis) faucet. Caveat, I recommend a dual dishwasher/RO air gap, or at least an RO air gap faucet, which are NOT included. I very strongly recommend a small tube of food-grade silicon grease. > Since my old system was a 1/4" tubing system (like the APEC ROES-50), I used the old 1/4" water supply line (meaning that I did not have to install any adapters, splitters, valves, nor a new line). I could have used my old (air-gap) RO faucet --- but I chose to use the (included) new (non-airgap) faucet. EASE OF INSTALLATION > The two hardest parts of a new installation are installing the adapter (if necessary), a splitter, valve, and a new cold water supply line, AND drilling a hole in your countertop for the reverse osmosis faucet. If you install a dual dishwasher/RO air gap, that will require a second hole. Since I did NOT have to do any of that, my installation was very easy. Essentially, all I had to do was install a valve on the top of the new tank (very easy), install the 3 primary filters (very easy), and connect lines to the water supply, to the tank, and to the RO faucet (easy). > Connecting the lines to the water supply, to the incoming water line, water tank, and to the RO faucet was very easy: You pull out plugs from the connectors, insert the new lines (IMPORTANT -- as deep as they will go), and then pull out on the new lines to tighten the connection. Remarkable! Installing the connections on my old system was much more difficult, and almost invariably leaked. The new quick connections were ridiculously easy, and after about 2 years, have NEVER leaked. OTHER OPTIONS > Tempted by a smaller, more compact system? That's fine for a drinking water system, say in an office. But check out the tank capacity, the amount of water that such a system can deliver at one-time is about half-the nominal tank capacity. A 1 gal system would only deliver a little over half-a gallon at a time. Smaller (than 5-gal tank) systems are likely to be too small for a home kitchen, if you want to do more than boil a pot of spaghetti. A small system will probably generate much less RO wastewater (and therefore be kinder to your water bill), but maintenance will probably be comparatively high --- because they use non-standard components. Most of the components of the ROES-50 system are industry-standard --- you can purchase most of the components (under various brands) from Home Depot --- and therefore, the prices are competitive. > You need a 5 gallon tank (which can actually deliver only 2--3 gallons at-a-time) for a home kitchen system. You may never use more than a gallon at a time, but that first gallon will be delivered quickly -- the second or third gallon will be tad slower. If you want a fourth or fifth gallon, you'll have to wait a half-hour or so. If you need a higher capacity system, I strongly suggest that you add additional storage tanks first, rather than a higher capacity filtering system. (If you opt for a nominally higher capacity filtering system, you'll need the additional tanks anyway to take advantage of the higher capacity filtering system). > I considered a ca $30 more expensive 3/8" line system (largely because I suspected that a 3/8" system would be less leak-prone). I'm glad I did not buy it. For one thing, I would have had to install new fittings for the water supply to the RO system. It is claimed that the 3/8" system fills big cooking pots quickly, but frankly, the 1/4" system does as well. Bullshxt !!! --- the difference would be measured in seconds, and your max capacity would still only be 2-3 gallons at a time. If you increase your storage to, say, 20 gallons (to be capable of delivering 10-15 gallons at a time) (very easy, just purchase the tanks and fittings to connect them), then maybe the system would "fill big pots" noticeably faster (but still measured in seconds). > By the way a 2--3 gallon capacity (for the ROES-50 system, with just a single 5 gal tank) might sound inadequate, but in 25 years, I've never felt the need for greater capacity -- I virtually never used more than a gallon at a time. (Well, collecting 10 gal in plastic milk bottles ahead of a hurricane can take an afternoon, but I've only done that once). And the solution (for me, if I felt that I needed it) would be to add a second 5-gallon tank, not to "upgrade" to a "higher capacity" system. Moreover, presumably a "100 gallon/day system" probably generates 2x more RO wastewater than a 50 gallon/day system -- and the difference may add up to considerably higher water bills. > It was my impression that the ROES-50 system came with standard fittings, and that I'd have to pay more for a quick-connect system. But my ROES-50 system came with quick-connect fittings. No error by APEC nor Amzn -- the box and instructions were clearly labeled "ROES-50". TIPS > When installing the cold water supply, tank, faucet, and drain lines, it is best NOT to shorten them for a neater installation (as I did for my first RO system). In the future, you may need to change the water tank and the reverse osmosis faucet, and maybe even your main sink faucet. In the past 30 years I've changed my main faucet 3 times, my RO faucet 3 times, my RO tank 3 times, and my RO membrane 4 times, plus changing the other RO filters many times. If you shorten the lines, you might have to disconnect various lines for access, which can be surprisingly confusing, and might be difficult to re-install without leakage. If you leave the lines long, you can probably simply move the RO system aside for access without having to disconnect anything. > To install the cold water supply, tank, and reverse osmosis faucet lines, keep the connection CLEAN until installation (i.e., don't remove the plugs early, and wipe off the ends of the lines with a clean cloth) just before you insert them into the connectors). Insert the end of the line as deep into the connector as it will go, then pull back HARD to set the connection. Leave 3--5" space with your cabinet walls (or door) so that there is no sideways strain on the lines at the connectors. > Use (food grade) silicon grease (NOT included) when installing the three big filter housings. The 3" diameter o-rings in the three big filter housings come greased already with silicon grease (be VERY careful not to contaminate the surfaces of the greased o-rings with dust or grit). When you change the filters in the future, you should clean the o-rings (until no more black carbon comes off on a paper towel), and re-grease them with food grade silicon grease, and wipe off the excess, thoroughly. > The 2 large carbon filters also have rubber disks, which are best LIGHTLY greased with silicon grease (wipe off ALL excess). Don't forget to remove the shrink plastic around the three big filters before installing them (as one reviewer claimed that her plumber had failed to do). > APEC recommends installing the RO drainline into your sink drain pipe as low as practical to avoid the sounds of RO waste water dripping into your sink drain. Instead, I suggest installing the RO drainline below the level that the drain line exits the RO manifold (which depends on where and how you mount the RO manifold), but otherwise AS HIGH AS POSSIBLE, to minimize backflow from your sink U trap, which really has disgusting stuff (mats of bacteria) in it. I actually have a 6" high "stand", consisting of 4 short lengths of 4x6 boards to raise the system as high as possible in my sink cabinet. Beware that the water level in your sink waste line can be higher than the top of the sink drainline U-trap if your sink is draining slowly. The HIGHER the drainline enters your sink drainline, the safer, albeit the sound of dripping water may be a little louder. Be vigilant to maintain your sink waste line clear at all times and that water never backs up in your sink. [See "No Air Gap" below for a better idea] > Applying silicon grease to the threads of the big filter housings makes them easier to tighten tight enough to prevent leakage, and to later loosen to change the filters. (Read some of the negative reviews which complain that it is impossible to tighten the housings tight enough to stop leaks, or that it is impossible to remove the housings to replace filters. Many users apparently overtighten them, to the point that the housings eventually crack. Trust me --- USE SILICON GREASE on the filter housing threads. Screw the filter housings on and off several times to be sure that the silicon grease is thoroughly spread on the threads), then tighten firmly hand-tight --- you should not have to use tools. CAUTION -- Some day, your system or your sink will leak. So, I very strongly suggest that you invest in a leak detection alarm. You don't need to get fancy. You don't need WiFi and other silly features. I bought a package of 2 alarms for $8 twenty years ago, and they have saved my hotwater heater cabinet from being destroyed, and my sink cabinet from being destroyed a half-dozen times. These days $10 (each) alarms are good enough for this purpose. Weathertek (and probably some other manufacturers) also makes a sink cabinet mat which I highly recommend. The mat catches leaks before they puddle up enough to trigger your leak alarm. Slow leaks can damage press-board cabinets without setting off a leak alarm. If you change your water heater, install a deep plastic dish (designed for the purpose), beneath it, with a leak detector inside the dish. NO AIR GAP > RO systems require a wastewater drain line --- almost always draining into your sink drain pipe. That's because additional water is used to flush the reverse osmosis filter --- you've got to get rid of those sodium ions, calcium ions , chloride ions, etc. trapped by the osmosis filter, or the filter would be quickly hopelessly clogged up. That RO wastewater has to drain somewhere. > I was surprised by the lack of an airgap in the wastewater line in the APEC ROES-50 system (which is usually built into included RO faucets). The cheapest option is to connect your RO wastewater line to your dishwasher air gap (if your dishwasher is adjacent to your RO system, and has an airgap). > The best option is to use a "dual inlet air gap" specifically designed for a dishwasher and an RO system --about $40 from Amzn. There is even a model with a 1/4" push-in fitting on the RO side (the same type fitting as this APEC ROES-50 system for all the other connections). The only downside to a dishwasher/RO airgap is that you need another ~1" diameter hole in your countertop. Also, the APEC ROES-50 wasteline is 3/8", so you'll need a 3/8" to 1/4" tubing adapter -- but that's cheap and easy. > If your dishwasher is NOT adjacent to your RO system, you can replace the included non-airgap RO faucet with an airgap RO faucet. Easy-pesy, but an extra expense, and not as good a solution as a dishwasher/RO airgap. > If your RO system drains into the highest sink in your house or building, which is also and the highest sink in your neighborhood, you do NOT live in a flood zone, and your water pressure is stable (even after severe storms, etc.), and is at a higher elevation than any toilet in your neighborhood -- then you are PROBABLY okay without an airgap, albeit I'd still recommend a combined dishwasher/RO air gap. > If you are at a comparatively low elevation of a municipal sewage system (i.e., if sewage may flow into your home plumbing during a flood, etc.), then an air gap RO system is recommended (and probably mandated by law if you are connected to a municipal water system). In many municipalities, an airgap is even mandated for even stand-alone dishwashers. You MAY be able to recover from a potential contamination event by replacing ALL of the filters in the system (at about the cost of an entirely new system, which would be a better idea), but the true danger is in not knowing that your system has been contaminated. > Without an air gap, your system can become contaminated simply from the sewage-like gunk in your sink drain line if your RO system ever looses water pressure (say during a widespread power outage that shuts down the municipal water pumps, or even during maintenance of the municipal water lines). If your system is for vacation home etc., where you may turn off the water for long periods (or otherwise your water pressure is not continuous), then an airgap is probably essential. WHY IS A DISHWASHER AIR GAP BETTER THAN AN AIR GAP RO FAUCET? > That sewage like bacteria in your sink U-trap can grow up into your RO drain line and clog it, causing your air gap faucet to leak onto your counter (it is designed to do this). If you have an air gap RO faucet your wastewater drainline needs to be cleaned every 4-6 months. Read the reviews -- several reviewers claim that they replace their entire RO systems every 2 years or so because of the leakage from the RO airgap faucet (even though, obviously, it would be much more practical to simply clean the RO wastewater line). > Cleaning the wastewater line of an RO airgap faucet usually means disconnecting the RO drainline at your sink U-bend and running a special brush up the drain line to the RO air gap faucet. Alternatively, RO air gap faucets usually have a ~1/8" diameter drain hole on the side (non-air gap faucets do not have a drainhold). With a large syringe (at least 1/8" diameter at the pointy end) is possible to force a blast of air, or to inject an ounce or so of Clorox (or hydrogen peroxide, or even diluted dishsoap) through the drain hole (and down the RO waste-water line). The problem is that it is easy to forget to clean the RO wastewater drainline on schedule, and wake up to a flood on your countertop some morning. It's happened to me MANY times. > WHY WON'T AN RO WASTE WATER LINE ALSO CLOG IF IT IS ROUTED THROUGH A DISHWASHER AIR GAP? A bacterial mat won't grow up your dishwasher wasteline because the drain line is much larger, much longer, and is the dishwasher side is vigorously flushed every time you run your dishwasher -- and even if the bacterial mat got to the dishwasher air gap, the airgap would stop it from getting any farther. > Why does the APEC ROES-50 have a 3/8" wastewater line even though my old RO system had a 1/4" RO waste water line? This is apparently APECs attempt to reduce the probability of clogging of the RO wasteline with a sewage-like bacterial mat growing from the U-trap of your sink drain pipe. But, in my opinion the larger wastewater line only slows down the wastewater flow velocity, making it easier for the bacterial mat to grow up the line and into your RO system (since there is no air gap to stop it).
Review: Great customer support - I’ve had this RO filter for 3 years now. It has served my family great. It’s our main drinking water supply. The water comes out tasting clean and fresh. Our tap water is good, but it’s hard and has a high level of dissolved solids, which is why we decided to get this system in the first place. It has resolved all those issues. I often test the water with a meter that checks the dissolved solids and it always tests close to 0ppm. When it’s closer to 5-10ppm I change the filters. The filters are a bit expensive, but they last a long time. I change them on average every 6-12 months. Depends on the readings I get on my meter. They’re a bit daunting to change the first time, but once you’ve done it a few times it just becomes another chore you can complete in 10-15 minutes. We used to buy large water jugs and this filter allows us to have unlimited filtered drinking water. I also use it for my indoor plants and my fish tank. Both the plants and the fish also appreciate the cleaner water. Install is not super difficult, but it does take some time and patience. For me it was worth it to avoid having to go buy filtered drinking water in large jugs once a week. I’m somewhat handy, but no plumber or anything like that. It’s totally doable for anyone that has some common sense. If you can build ikea furniture, this is very doable too. I recently had a leak in the center housing. After having the system for three years I guess something was bound to break down. I switched the o-rings and filters, but that didn’t fix the leak. I emailed APEC and got a response within hours. They asked for some basic information to verify my purchase and then proceeded to help me with my issue. Within a few exchanges I had the necessary part mailed out to me. I installed it, and now the leak is fixed. It was a bit of a hassle, but I appreciated the quick response, great customer service and overall helpfulness. I felt very supported with this issue. Exactly what you would expect from a company that cares about their product and customer base. Overall I’d say this product is for you if your tap water isn’t the best and you want an option that doesn’t involve lugging large water jugs. The initial investment is hard to swallow at first, but once it’s all connected and set up you appreciate having this filter set up. I find myself drinking more water than before since I know I essentially have an unlimited supply of filtered water. Having a meter that checks dissolved solids in the water takes the guess work out of changing the filters, IMO. It’s an extra purchase, but it’s cheap and easy to use.

## Features

- APEC ROES-50 - Offers reliable reverse osmosis water filtration for 50 gallons per day, removing up to 99.99% of impurities and providing ultra-pure, great-tasting drinking water for your home right from the kitchen tap!
- 5-Stage Filtration - Long-lasting, large capacity filters remove arsenic, chlorine, lead, fluoride, heavy metals, and 1000+ impurities from tap water while protecting your loved ones from PFAs and microplastics.
- DIY Friendly - ROES-50 is made with simple installation and maintenance in mind. Our RO water filtration system is equipped with quick connection fittings and colored tubing for fast, easy set-up and service.
- Everything You Need - Our RO system includes one Filter-Max-ES50 filter set, a brushed nickel faucet, a water tank, an installation kit, and instructions. We recommend replacing filters every 6-24 months, based on incoming water quality.
- Water You Can Trust - APEC has over 20 years of experience in creating the finest residential and commercial water filtration systems. Every system is designed, engineered, and tested in-house using high-quality parts.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B00I0ZGOZM |
| Best Sellers Rank | #2,902 in Tools & Home Improvement ( See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement ) #6 in Under-Sink & Countertop Filtration |
| Brand | APEC WATER |
| Brand Name | APEC WATER |
| Capacity | 50 gallons |
| Container Type | Dispenser |
| Customer Reviews | 4.5 out of 5 stars 9,404 Reviews |
| Filter Life Cycle | 6 months |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00854961005051 |
| Included Components | RO System, Tank, Filter Set, Owners Manual |
| Installation Type | Under Sink |
| Item Dimensions L x W x H | 15.5"L x 5.25"W x 17"H |
| Item Highlight | NSF Certified 372 & 58, Reduces 99% of Impurities, DIY Installation |
| Item Type Name | Essence Series Top Tier 5-Stage Certified Ultra Safe Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water Filter System |
| Item Weight | 11.3 kg |
| LowerTemperature Range | 40 °F |
| Manufacturer | APEC Water Systems |
| Material | Plastic |
| Material Type | Plastic |
| Maximum Flow Rate | 0.03 gpm |
| Model Name | ROES-50 |
| Model Number | ROES-50 |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Operating Pressure Range | 40-85 psi |
| Other Special Features of the Product | Reduce TDS |
| Part Number | ROES-50 |
| Power Source | Ac |
| Product Dimensions | 15.5"L x 5.25"W x 17"H |
| Purification Method | Activated Carbon, Reverse Osmosis |
| Special Feature | Reduce TDS |
| Supported Water TDS Level Maximum (PPM) | 2000 |
| UPC | 735090919450 854961005051 |
| Unit Count | 1 Count |
| Upper Temperature Rating | 100 °F |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** APEC WATER
- **Capacity:** 50 gallons
- **Included Components:** RO System, Tank, Filter Set, Owners Manual
- **Installation Type:** Under Sink
- **Material:** Plastic
- **Package Information:** Dispenser
- **Power Source:** Ac
- **Product Dimensions:** 15.5"L x 5.25"W x 17"H
- **Purification Method:** Activated Carbon, Reverse Osmosis
- **Special Feature:** Reduce TDS

## Images

![APEC Water ROES-50, 5-Stage Under Sink Reverse Osmosis System, 50 GPD - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71AWm4U7n9L.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Style** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: How is RO water compared to bottled water?**
A: Just as good or even better. We use the same technology as other major bottling plants use to filter water. RO systems purify water daily in your home which is fresher and healthier compared to water that has been sitting in plastic bottles.

**Q: How effective is Reverse Osmosis filtration compared to other methods?**
A: RO is the most convenient and effective method of water filtration. It filters water by squeezing water through a semi-permeable membrane, which is equalse to 0.00000004 inch! This is the technology used to make bottled water.

**Q: What is the WQA and what are the benefits of purchasing a certified system?**
A: To receive WQA Gold Seal certification, a RO system must be constructed to meet strict public health standards and pass weeks of rigorous testing for material and parts safety, structural integrity, and contaminant rejection performance.

**Q: What is the size of the product, and if I move, can I remove the system to bring with me?**
A: The dimensions are 17.5"H x 16"L x 5.25"W, and the tank is 11"W x 15"H. This system is very easy to uninstall. Just close the water inlet needle shut off, take off the water inlet tubing, and take off the whole system in 5 minutes.

**Q: How often do I need to replace the filters?**
A: The filtration process is optimized to protect the RO membrane, so the prefilters (the 3 filters before the membrane) can last between 6-12 months, and the RO membrane & post-filters can last between 12-24 months depending on incoming water quality.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ >>> DOES THE JOB
*by S***Y on July 23, 2023*

> I purchased the APEC ROES-50 to replace a similar 25 year-old system, largely because I was due for a completely filter change (including the membrane), and a tank change --- which would have costed as much as a new system. > The APEC ROES-50 system includes everything you need for a complete installation, including adapters, a splitter, and a valve to attach to your cold water line, and an RO (reverse osmosis) faucet. Caveat, I recommend a dual dishwasher/RO air gap, or at least an RO air gap faucet, which are NOT included. I very strongly recommend a small tube of food-grade silicon grease. > Since my old system was a 1/4" tubing system (like the APEC ROES-50), I used the old 1/4" water supply line (meaning that I did not have to install any adapters, splitters, valves, nor a new line). I could have used my old (air-gap) RO faucet --- but I chose to use the (included) new (non-airgap) faucet. EASE OF INSTALLATION > The two hardest parts of a new installation are installing the adapter (if necessary), a splitter, valve, and a new cold water supply line, AND drilling a hole in your countertop for the reverse osmosis faucet. If you install a dual dishwasher/RO air gap, that will require a second hole. Since I did NOT have to do any of that, my installation was very easy. Essentially, all I had to do was install a valve on the top of the new tank (very easy), install the 3 primary filters (very easy), and connect lines to the water supply, to the tank, and to the RO faucet (easy). > Connecting the lines to the water supply, to the incoming water line, water tank, and to the RO faucet was very easy: You pull out plugs from the connectors, insert the new lines (IMPORTANT -- as deep as they will go), and then pull out on the new lines to tighten the connection. Remarkable! Installing the connections on my old system was much more difficult, and almost invariably leaked. The new quick connections were ridiculously easy, and after about 2 years, have NEVER leaked. OTHER OPTIONS > Tempted by a smaller, more compact system? That's fine for a drinking water system, say in an office. But check out the tank capacity, the amount of water that such a system can deliver at one-time is about half-the nominal tank capacity. A 1 gal system would only deliver a little over half-a gallon at a time. Smaller (than 5-gal tank) systems are likely to be too small for a home kitchen, if you want to do more than boil a pot of spaghetti. A small system will probably generate much less RO wastewater (and therefore be kinder to your water bill), but maintenance will probably be comparatively high --- because they use non-standard components. Most of the components of the ROES-50 system are industry-standard --- you can purchase most of the components (under various brands) from Home Depot --- and therefore, the prices are competitive. > You need a 5 gallon tank (which can actually deliver only 2--3 gallons at-a-time) for a home kitchen system. You may never use more than a gallon at a time, but that first gallon will be delivered quickly -- the second or third gallon will be tad slower. If you want a fourth or fifth gallon, you'll have to wait a half-hour or so. If you need a higher capacity system, I strongly suggest that you add additional storage tanks first, rather than a higher capacity filtering system. (If you opt for a nominally higher capacity filtering system, you'll need the additional tanks anyway to take advantage of the higher capacity filtering system). > I considered a ca $30 more expensive 3/8" line system (largely because I suspected that a 3/8" system would be less leak-prone). I'm glad I did not buy it. For one thing, I would have had to install new fittings for the water supply to the RO system. It is claimed that the 3/8" system fills big cooking pots quickly, but frankly, the 1/4" system does as well. Bullshxt !!! --- the difference would be measured in seconds, and your max capacity would still only be 2-3 gallons at a time. If you increase your storage to, say, 20 gallons (to be capable of delivering 10-15 gallons at a time) (very easy, just purchase the tanks and fittings to connect them), then maybe the system would "fill big pots" noticeably faster (but still measured in seconds). > By the way a 2--3 gallon capacity (for the ROES-50 system, with just a single 5 gal tank) might sound inadequate, but in 25 years, I've never felt the need for greater capacity -- I virtually never used more than a gallon at a time. (Well, collecting 10 gal in plastic milk bottles ahead of a hurricane can take an afternoon, but I've only done that once). And the solution (for me, if I felt that I needed it) would be to add a second 5-gallon tank, not to "upgrade" to a "higher capacity" system. Moreover, presumably a "100 gallon/day system" probably generates 2x more RO wastewater than a 50 gallon/day system -- and the difference may add up to considerably higher water bills. > It was my impression that the ROES-50 system came with standard fittings, and that I'd have to pay more for a quick-connect system. But my ROES-50 system came with quick-connect fittings. No error by APEC nor Amzn -- the box and instructions were clearly labeled "ROES-50". TIPS > When installing the cold water supply, tank, faucet, and drain lines, it is best NOT to shorten them for a neater installation (as I did for my first RO system). In the future, you may need to change the water tank and the reverse osmosis faucet, and maybe even your main sink faucet. In the past 30 years I've changed my main faucet 3 times, my RO faucet 3 times, my RO tank 3 times, and my RO membrane 4 times, plus changing the other RO filters many times. If you shorten the lines, you might have to disconnect various lines for access, which can be surprisingly confusing, and might be difficult to re-install without leakage. If you leave the lines long, you can probably simply move the RO system aside for access without having to disconnect anything. > To install the cold water supply, tank, and reverse osmosis faucet lines, keep the connection CLEAN until installation (i.e., don't remove the plugs early, and wipe off the ends of the lines with a clean cloth) just before you insert them into the connectors). Insert the end of the line as deep into the connector as it will go, then pull back HARD to set the connection. Leave 3--5" space with your cabinet walls (or door) so that there is no sideways strain on the lines at the connectors. > Use (food grade) silicon grease (NOT included) when installing the three big filter housings. The 3" diameter o-rings in the three big filter housings come greased already with silicon grease (be VERY careful not to contaminate the surfaces of the greased o-rings with dust or grit). When you change the filters in the future, you should clean the o-rings (until no more black carbon comes off on a paper towel), and re-grease them with food grade silicon grease, and wipe off the excess, thoroughly. > The 2 large carbon filters also have rubber disks, which are best LIGHTLY greased with silicon grease (wipe off ALL excess). Don't forget to remove the shrink plastic around the three big filters before installing them (as one reviewer claimed that her plumber had failed to do). > APEC recommends installing the RO drainline into your sink drain pipe as low as practical to avoid the sounds of RO waste water dripping into your sink drain. Instead, I suggest installing the RO drainline below the level that the drain line exits the RO manifold (which depends on where and how you mount the RO manifold), but otherwise AS HIGH AS POSSIBLE, to minimize backflow from your sink U trap, which really has disgusting stuff (mats of bacteria) in it. I actually have a 6" high "stand", consisting of 4 short lengths of 4x6 boards to raise the system as high as possible in my sink cabinet. Beware that the water level in your sink waste line can be higher than the top of the sink drainline U-trap if your sink is draining slowly. The HIGHER the drainline enters your sink drainline, the safer, albeit the sound of dripping water may be a little louder. Be vigilant to maintain your sink waste line clear at all times and that water never backs up in your sink. [See "No Air Gap" below for a better idea] > Applying silicon grease to the threads of the big filter housings makes them easier to tighten tight enough to prevent leakage, and to later loosen to change the filters. (Read some of the negative reviews which complain that it is impossible to tighten the housings tight enough to stop leaks, or that it is impossible to remove the housings to replace filters. Many users apparently overtighten them, to the point that the housings eventually crack. Trust me --- USE SILICON GREASE on the filter housing threads. Screw the filter housings on and off several times to be sure that the silicon grease is thoroughly spread on the threads), then tighten firmly hand-tight --- you should not have to use tools. CAUTION -- Some day, your system or your sink will leak. So, I very strongly suggest that you invest in a leak detection alarm. You don't need to get fancy. You don't need WiFi and other silly features. I bought a package of 2 alarms for $8 twenty years ago, and they have saved my hotwater heater cabinet from being destroyed, and my sink cabinet from being destroyed a half-dozen times. These days $10 (each) alarms are good enough for this purpose. Weathertek (and probably some other manufacturers) also makes a sink cabinet mat which I highly recommend. The mat catches leaks before they puddle up enough to trigger your leak alarm. Slow leaks can damage press-board cabinets without setting off a leak alarm. If you change your water heater, install a deep plastic dish (designed for the purpose), beneath it, with a leak detector inside the dish. NO AIR GAP > RO systems require a wastewater drain line --- almost always draining into your sink drain pipe. That's because additional water is used to flush the reverse osmosis filter --- you've got to get rid of those sodium ions, calcium ions , chloride ions, etc. trapped by the osmosis filter, or the filter would be quickly hopelessly clogged up. That RO wastewater has to drain somewhere. > I was surprised by the lack of an airgap in the wastewater line in the APEC ROES-50 system (which is usually built into included RO faucets). The cheapest option is to connect your RO wastewater line to your dishwasher air gap (if your dishwasher is adjacent to your RO system, and has an airgap). > The best option is to use a "dual inlet air gap" specifically designed for a dishwasher and an RO system --about $40 from Amzn. There is even a model with a 1/4" push-in fitting on the RO side (the same type fitting as this APEC ROES-50 system for all the other connections). The only downside to a dishwasher/RO airgap is that you need another ~1" diameter hole in your countertop. Also, the APEC ROES-50 wasteline is 3/8", so you'll need a 3/8" to 1/4" tubing adapter -- but that's cheap and easy. > If your dishwasher is NOT adjacent to your RO system, you can replace the included non-airgap RO faucet with an airgap RO faucet. Easy-pesy, but an extra expense, and not as good a solution as a dishwasher/RO airgap. > If your RO system drains into the highest sink in your house or building, which is also and the highest sink in your neighborhood, you do NOT live in a flood zone, and your water pressure is stable (even after severe storms, etc.), and is at a higher elevation than any toilet in your neighborhood -- then you are PROBABLY okay without an airgap, albeit I'd still recommend a combined dishwasher/RO air gap. > If you are at a comparatively low elevation of a municipal sewage system (i.e., if sewage may flow into your home plumbing during a flood, etc.), then an air gap RO system is recommended (and probably mandated by law if you are connected to a municipal water system). In many municipalities, an airgap is even mandated for even stand-alone dishwashers. You MAY be able to recover from a potential contamination event by replacing ALL of the filters in the system (at about the cost of an entirely new system, which would be a better idea), but the true danger is in not knowing that your system has been contaminated. > Without an air gap, your system can become contaminated simply from the sewage-like gunk in your sink drain line if your RO system ever looses water pressure (say during a widespread power outage that shuts down the municipal water pumps, or even during maintenance of the municipal water lines). If your system is for vacation home etc., where you may turn off the water for long periods (or otherwise your water pressure is not continuous), then an airgap is probably essential. WHY IS A DISHWASHER AIR GAP BETTER THAN AN AIR GAP RO FAUCET? > That sewage like bacteria in your sink U-trap can grow up into your RO drain line and clog it, causing your air gap faucet to leak onto your counter (it is designed to do this). If you have an air gap RO faucet your wastewater drainline needs to be cleaned every 4-6 months. Read the reviews -- several reviewers claim that they replace their entire RO systems every 2 years or so because of the leakage from the RO airgap faucet (even though, obviously, it would be much more practical to simply clean the RO wastewater line). > Cleaning the wastewater line of an RO airgap faucet usually means disconnecting the RO drainline at your sink U-bend and running a special brush up the drain line to the RO air gap faucet. Alternatively, RO air gap faucets usually have a ~1/8" diameter drain hole on the side (non-air gap faucets do not have a drainhold). With a large syringe (at least 1/8" diameter at the pointy end) is possible to force a blast of air, or to inject an ounce or so of Clorox (or hydrogen peroxide, or even diluted dishsoap) through the drain hole (and down the RO waste-water line). The problem is that it is easy to forget to clean the RO wastewater drainline on schedule, and wake up to a flood on your countertop some morning. It's happened to me MANY times. > WHY WON'T AN RO WASTE WATER LINE ALSO CLOG IF IT IS ROUTED THROUGH A DISHWASHER AIR GAP? A bacterial mat won't grow up your dishwasher wasteline because the drain line is much larger, much longer, and is the dishwasher side is vigorously flushed every time you run your dishwasher -- and even if the bacterial mat got to the dishwasher air gap, the airgap would stop it from getting any farther. > Why does the APEC ROES-50 have a 3/8" wastewater line even though my old RO system had a 1/4" RO waste water line? This is apparently APECs attempt to reduce the probability of clogging of the RO wasteline with a sewage-like bacterial mat growing from the U-trap of your sink drain pipe. But, in my opinion the larger wastewater line only slows down the wastewater flow velocity, making it easier for the bacterial mat to grow up the line and into your RO system (since there is no air gap to stop it).

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great customer support
*by J***E on April 12, 2026*

I’ve had this RO filter for 3 years now. It has served my family great. It’s our main drinking water supply. The water comes out tasting clean and fresh. Our tap water is good, but it’s hard and has a high level of dissolved solids, which is why we decided to get this system in the first place. It has resolved all those issues. I often test the water with a meter that checks the dissolved solids and it always tests close to 0ppm. When it’s closer to 5-10ppm I change the filters. The filters are a bit expensive, but they last a long time. I change them on average every 6-12 months. Depends on the readings I get on my meter. They’re a bit daunting to change the first time, but once you’ve done it a few times it just becomes another chore you can complete in 10-15 minutes. We used to buy large water jugs and this filter allows us to have unlimited filtered drinking water. I also use it for my indoor plants and my fish tank. Both the plants and the fish also appreciate the cleaner water. Install is not super difficult, but it does take some time and patience. For me it was worth it to avoid having to go buy filtered drinking water in large jugs once a week. I’m somewhat handy, but no plumber or anything like that. It’s totally doable for anyone that has some common sense. If you can build ikea furniture, this is very doable too. I recently had a leak in the center housing. After having the system for three years I guess something was bound to break down. I switched the o-rings and filters, but that didn’t fix the leak. I emailed APEC and got a response within hours. They asked for some basic information to verify my purchase and then proceeded to help me with my issue. Within a few exchanges I had the necessary part mailed out to me. I installed it, and now the leak is fixed. It was a bit of a hassle, but I appreciated the quick response, great customer service and overall helpfulness. I felt very supported with this issue. Exactly what you would expect from a company that cares about their product and customer base. Overall I’d say this product is for you if your tap water isn’t the best and you want an option that doesn’t involve lugging large water jugs. The initial investment is hard to swallow at first, but once it’s all connected and set up you appreciate having this filter set up. I find myself drinking more water than before since I know I essentially have an unlimited supply of filtered water. Having a meter that checks dissolved solids in the water takes the guess work out of changing the filters, IMO. It’s an extra purchase, but it’s cheap and easy to use.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Ten years later...
*by V***C on February 25, 2026*

I bought this same system in February 2016 and placed my first review back then. This is my update on March 2026. This product has served me well for ten years. I live in the Southwest, and the tap water has a lot of minerals and tastes bad. After all this time, it keeps giving me great tasting water and friends on the area without this RO system, bring bottles to my home, so they can get some good drinking water to their home. Filters last long time, making the maintenance cost low. Installation is easy if you are handy. But you must be careful and not do it in a hurry. Now, If you want to know about potential problems and customer support read the following: After ten years I got some leaking that was not easy to fix, until I understood what the problem was. I learned that the canister caps can crack, especially if canisters are overtightened when replacing the filters. I discovered online that many people deal with this. To prevent this, canisters should be tightened by hand and with the tool just add 1/8 or a turn. When hard to deal with leaks happen, remove the canisters and look for very thin cracks on the caps. The only solution is replacing the "system head" with the three caps attached to the main metal support. Another good solution is to replace the whole system that comes with all filters. If you replace filters for the five stages, the cost is about half of the full system with the filters. So, if you have gotten five or more years of good service, it would not be a bad deal. That is what I should have done that from the beginning, but I did not know what was going on. So I almost $100 in the five stages filters plus O-rings. But that did not fix the problem. Then the system head was out of stock... I had to wait 6 weeks to be able to buy it. But the good people from APEC support went out of their way so that I could get the part really quick. I liked that they stood by their product. Now my system is working like a charm again!

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*Product available on Desertcart Japan*
*Store origin: JP*
*Last updated: 2026-09-13*