Hella H7 100W High Wattage Bulb, 12V

Well these lights were nice however by me and my own negligence I ended up frying my headlight retainer. Took me a little bit to realize why. But when I read the bottom of the plastic retainer it said 50 watt Max and these lights were 100 Watts so it was just too much power for those retainers to hold. No damage to the headlight replace retainers lights worked as usual. But I like to clarity a few flights and they seem like they were going to last a long time but then I never got full use out of them due to the fact I didn't realize the specifications for the car

I recently installed these low beam head light bulbs on my 2014 BMW 328xi. While these are great light bulbs for your low beams, they are very difficult to install. They are a bit whiter than my old low beam head lamps, please see my photos above for additional information. *I highly recommended watching a few “how-to” videos online before you even try to install these light bulbs. If you still want to do it yourself after watching the video, then following my advice may help you avoid some of the headaches that I experienced the first time that I tried to install my low beam head lamps. To begin, you will need a good flashlight or shop light and a regular sized flat head screwdriver. 1) First, turn the front wheels of your vehicle all the way to the right to install the left bulb, and to the left to install the right bulb. You need to turn the wheels in order to access the light compartment without removing the wheel which for some insane reason is in the wheel-well of the vehicle. (Thank you BMW for making this process extremely difficult). 2) MAKE SURE TO TURN YOUR VEHICLE OFF BEFORE PROCEEDING TO THE NEXT TASK! Once the wheels are turned you can then access the light bulb compartment in the vehicles wheel-well. 3) To remove the plastic cover of the light compartment loosen the two tabs at the top and carefully pry it off with the screwdriver. Once removed you will see the round cover for the low beam light bulb. 4) Turn this to the left to remove, remembering that this one screws on and off. Do not try to pry the round cover off with the screwdriver or you will break it. Both of these covers should come off rather easily. Once inside the light compartment feel around for the back of the bulb. Once you discover the back of the bulb. 5) To remove the bulb you will need to very carefully stick your flathead screwdriver into the light compartment to move the small clip at the very top of the bulb so that it releases the bulb. (You’ll see this in the video when you watch it). You should hear a slight click sound when the top tab is released. The bulb will still be connected to the cord at this time. 6) Carefully pull the bulb and cord out of the light compartment. 7) Once out slowly wiggle the bulb off the plug being very careful not to damage the plug or cord. This may take a few minutes to do, but it will eventually come off, just make sure not to damage the plug or the cord. After you have removed the old bulb, take the new bulb out of the package being very careful not to touch the glass part of the new bulb. 8) When you have the new bulb out, slowly install the bulb onto the plug making sure that the small tab on the back of the bulb is facing up, and the circular part of the back of the bulb is facing down. (*SEE PHOTOS) 9) Once the bulb is on the plug, you can start to install the light bulb into place. 10) While working the bulb with one hand, you can watch from the front side of the vehicle to see that the tip of the new bulb is going into the correct hole. Watching from the front of the light compartment will help you to correctly guide the bulb into place. If installed correctly, (small tab UP), you will feel the bulb click into place. 11) Once installed, test the bulb to make sure that it correctly works. After your test, if the bulb correctly works you can 12) replace the round cover on the light compartment, (remember that this cover screws on) 13) then reinstall the square cover of the light compartment that is in the wheel-well. Make sure that this clicks back into place to ensure that debris does not get into the light compartment. You are now ready to do the other side of the vehicle because we always install new bulbs in pairs.Lastly, I highly encourage anyone that is going to attempt to do this to watch any of the great “how-to” videos online that will very clearly show you how to install the low beam light bulbs in your BMW. Good luck with your adventure, I hope that this review will offer some assistance to you with the difficult task of changing your low beam head lamps in your BMW 3-Series vehicle. Tom Feddor, Chicago IL

My car is going on 22 years old, so I've replaced this more than once when the low beams go out (different bulb for high beam). Probably should polish up the plastic in the headlight, though I live in the sunbelt, and these fog up again after awhile (wish they still used sealed beams, the sun didn't degrade the glass and you got whole new unit for much less expense and lower maintenance). Probably should replace the headlight reflector unit and plastic, not just because of the fogged plastic, but also mine has some sort of built in city light unit but the insulation on the wiring has deteriorated and threatens to short out even if the wiring to the low and high beam bulbs itself is fine (wires are inside the headlight unit...probably should just cut the wire, since they're not required to pass inspection, and don't really do much besides look unique....kind of like the light bar on my Dad's 80's Mercury Sable but for a European car.Anyhow, assuming you can get to the back of the unit to open it up (one side is easy on my car, the other side have to move the battery since it is in the way until you've replaced the bulb...might be good to just replace both high and low beams on that side while you're doing it even if one bulb still works). Bulb is keyed so it is oriented by the unit it goes into, there's a wire clip that I always forget how it works between changes since usually several years go by between replacements. Of course, try to keep the protective cover on the bulb and don't touch it with your hands, else you should wipe it down with alcohol to remove any oil that gets on the bulb (handle it by the stem and try not to touch the glass portion when putting it in place).Probably shouldn't wait until my state inspection to check, but sometimes it is oddly hard to know bulb is burned out on one side unless you leave lights on and get out of the car to check...on my car you have to have keys in ignition, otherwise the headlights don't come on, so don't scare yourself if none of your lights come on with switch in on position but the keys not in the right position in the cylinder. Another hint, I live in the sunbelt and state inspections are during the day, originally I think I had a buzzer that came on if the lights were on with the keys out of the ignition, but doesn't work anymore, so make sure to check to make sure your lights are turned off during the day after the inspection is complete, or you risk having a depleted or even dead battery due to lights being on and you not noticing since it is so bright out.....caught me 2 years in a row at inspection time where they guy didn't turn my lights off after checking that they worked OK, and I couldn't tell (parked outside in the sun so didn't know they were on) and drained the battery....even if headlight is off, other lights still on if switch isn't turned off (my car has manual light control, no photoelectric sensor to automatically turn them on/off on top of the dashboard).Replaced with the original halogen bulb...LEDs are popular now and I'm sure use less energy, guess I'm traditionalist but try to keep original type of parts when replacing them...maybe lighting doesn't matter as much, but sometimes there's a reason the OEM part was spec'd, found out in my profession that one guy usually isn't aware enough to second guess the original intent of the designer if they specify part for some reason you might not be aware of....I respect their time doing the engineering, and hope they do the same if they buy the end product I work on (nothing vehicle related)....probably more important for filters and such, but keep that philosophy even with parts that aren't that sensitive to options

Got these installed the other day on my 2010 Subaru Legacy. Getting into the headlight compartment on these is a pain, especially when 15 degrees out. Have to either take down the plastic fender lining and reach around blindly, or remove the bumper and take out the housing. So the mechanic ended up taking care of that haha. They aren't the most bright, but safer than putting LED's in the factory housing. Hopefully these last longer than OEM as my OEM bulbs both went out super super quick. Believe it's pretty common on the 5th gen Legacy/Outbacks.(PS: If you are also having the issue of premature burnout on your Legacy/Outback, don't use the "Auto" headlight feature. Well reported online this is what causes the premature burnout unfortunately.

European cars can be expensive to maintain, so you have to save money where you can. This light was quite expensive at the auto parts store. I wasn't sure it would work even though all the markings are identical to the original equipment because it was so much cheaper. But it works perfectly.