Watts Premier Air Gap RO Auxiliary Faucet Chrome 1/4" Touch N'Flow Handle

Works great, not too difficult to install. Would definitely buy it again!

The water dispenser tube on our kitchen sink RO water dispenser broke off at the base. I looked around and checked various brands before settling on this one, which seemed to be the same brand as the one that came with our unit (which we'd purchased at Costco years ago). The instructions on the box were complete, although a little unclear that some of the instructions for the non air gap were also applicable to the air gap (our model). Came with all the required hardware, plenty of tube length for all 3 tubes, perfect size, and was quite easy to install as far as the faucet itself. The overall job was a pain through no fault of the faucet - just very difficult to get access under the sink. But now it works great, better than new! I'd definitely recommend this faucet for anyone with a Watts Premier RO-TFM-5SV (ours), or similar.

First off, the system seems pretty solid and works well. My only issue is with the instructions because someone at this company made the conscious decision to not include anything usable or even guide you to their youtube page that shows how to actually install it because connecting the blue tube to the faucet correctly is the difference between "this works great" and "F this company". Make absolutely sure that when you connect the blue tube to the faucet, bolt holding it together has been turned by a wrench and is tight, hand tighten won't cut it. This will seal the tube so you don't get any leaks at the faucet. I learned this the hard way.

This Watts premier air-gap faucet is a perfect replacement for our 35 year old reverse-osmosis (RO) sink faucet. We had the Watts RO system professionally installed in 1990. Over the years, we have increased the system's capacity. Eventually, the original faucet, also from Watts, just wore out. It didn't leak, but the handle wouldn't stay turned on in that position. This new watts premier air gap faucet is a surprisingly inexpensive exact replacement. It's half the price of many imported air gap faucets. Even better, it came with color-coded poly tubes already fitted. So they were a perfect fit to the RO system's existing connectors. Installation was a breeze. It fit perfectly into the pre-punched hole in the new stainless steel sink. It's clear that the faucet can also be used as a non-air gap faucet just by not using the red, black, and blue tubes that it comes with. Please ignore the slight and embarrassing line of stain on the top of the back splash. We replaced this RO faucet as a part of an ongoing kitchen remodel. This phase involved a new sink, main faucet and the RO faucet. Counter tops are the next phase!

I read reviews concerning being always leaking or lever does not stay up. Here is the clue you need. The rotating spout lifts out and the lever comes forward and off of the valve. In operation that lever lifts on a barrel nut that threads onto the valve plunger. It can be screwed down where it eventually will always lift and keep the valve open (leaking?). The same too low adjustment could prevent the lever from lifting all the way but without leaking. Or backed off higher and eventually not lift enough to fully open and turn on the water flow. I seriously needed a replacement but after seeing the assembly method I now know I could have made my 20+ year old flat sided model stop intermittently dripping 2 weeks ago. The valve has to be removed from the bottom. It only drops out after unscrewing the brass inlet pipe. That pipe has a tapered end with an o-ring only to prevent leaking outside of the assembly. The key part is the spring assisted lift valve. It has two o-rings with one very small one that seats into the top of the fill tube. It is a 3 cent o-ring fix as long as you have access to unusually small o-rings not commonly found in assortment sets. That is unless you are a Butane lighter or miniature water valve specialist. Still, cleaning up all the parts on my old one made things work again and Now I have a hot swap spare in the event this one ever has an issue before I go to the old folks home. I will add for the brave who disassemble the old unit. The bottom removal is the only way to fully disassemble as until the bottom is clear and the top barrel nut removed it will be near impossible to remove the top screw in valve retainer (in spite of the fact I split a screwdriver blade and did so myself). Special note. When reassembling only screw in the top retainer flush with the body, not all the way threaded in. You can install it with a common screwdriver because the valve stem is not sticking through the middle of the slot. The spring tension will be applied when you turn in the fill tube. I would recomend using a double nut (nut with a 2nd jam nut) system so as to not damage the pipe threads.

This is a universal replacement for the watts faucet. The one that came with your faucet is not available. In my case it was part number 116001. The black and red lines are pre-attached. The blue line needs to be installed after installing the faucet itself. The first thing I noticed is the blue line is not the same size as my original. The contents that comes with the faucet does not contain an adapter to convert to my original 3/8 line. The instructions states to call your dealer for more information. Can you imagine calling Home Depot or Amazon for more information? So I decided to use the smaller 1/4 inch blue line along with the hardware supplied. The supplied compression fitting is complete garbage. I put on the compression fitting, inserted the tube and ferrule. After installing the line I could, with almost not effort, pull the line out. Can you imagine if I put any water in the system? It would have leaked all over the place. I then thought, why not just use the old adapter and the old line. No can do. The old adapter used an inner diameter measure while the new faucet uses and outer diameter measure measurement for the 1/4 inch compression fitting. So using the old adapter was out of the question. So I went to my local hardware store. They have every adapter imaginable except the one you need. No 1/4 to 3/8 inch compression up convert. Think there is? Then go and look. LOL. I happened to have a compression fitting for 1/4 inch. Ok problem solved there. I'm now able to attach the blue 1/4 line to the faucet successfully. Now I have to attach the 1/4 line to (I think) a 1/2 inch plastic fitting on the pre-stage filter. HaHaHa, no such fitting at your local hardware store. Think there is? Then go and look. LOL. I luckily had a plastic adapter that took a 1/4 line. Again, also got lucky I had a 1/4 plastic, in this case, a non-compression fitting, but was designed for the application. So my questions for Watts. Why change the size of the line? Why change the faucet so I can't use my old adapter? Why supply a junk compression fitting? Why not supply a solution (call my dealer LOL). Oh, my final complaint. I forget what they call it, but there is a little hole in the side of the faucet. Some type of air gap or whatever they call it. In the morning I need to get 6 +/- cups of water for my coffee. If I dispense this amount of water at one time, water starts coming out of the whole (what I'm calling the air gap) all over the counter top. Did Watts ever test this?

I ordered a flat sided faucet and received a dome type from Warehouse Deals, it was rated as "like new", it was indeed like brand new including the hardware for nearly half price of a new one. When I installed my RO unit 15 years ago I didn't want to use the saddle attachment for the drain so I bought a pipe that a dishwasher uses to drain it's water. In the over all picture it shows a dish washer hose connected and the RO black tube connected to the drain system. Obviously I had to modify the new dishwasher pipe to fit where the original one was which may not always be possible depending on what the drain system is like. For the RO drain I bought 2 sizes of clear water hose from Lowe's, installed one of them inside the other as seen in the second picture. The small hose is shorter and is in one end of the large hose for the RO tube to go into and the other end of the large hose goes over the barbed dish washers fitting. Worked for 15 years.

Ordered this because it was the cheapest air gap I could find to replace a leaking GE Profile RO faucet. First, it does not come with all required connections to 3/8” line, so a trip to home store to find an in-line converter and a PVC cutter cost me another $15. Second, the plastic spacer is too long for any granite countertop unless you have 1/2” board or something. Mine is about 1” and still too long. Had to cut it with a Dremel. Third, the 1/4” compression fitting is the old style and not the easy push in. If you make a mistake and want to unscrew it, God knows if it seals again. Counting that I already paid more than $50 for this, I could have either gotten a new reverse osmosis system or just gotten a better faucet with a ceramic valve. If I didn’t have two more unopened filters, I would just replaced the whole RO system. Thanks for reading, and YMMV.

Works like advertised, easy to change, greta value and good quality

Seems well made and works well. Easy to use. Removed old air gap faucet and installed new one in less than 1 hour. Easy to use and works well. Delivery was on time.

Très satisfait !

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it works great